Book Review: We Fed an Island – the True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time

The book, “We Fed An Island – One Meal at a Time” by Chef Jose Andres (2018, Harper Collins Publisher) describes how the NGO, World Central Kitchen (WCK), reacted to the 2017 Hurricane Maria after it hit Puerto Rico, knocking out power and destroying homes. Several days after the hurricane, Chef Jose Andres traveled to Puerto Rico and began organizing kitchens to cook hot meals, largely sancocho (stew) and sandwiches, particularly ham and cheese sandwiches (“the key ingredient was the mayonnaise. Lots and lots of mayonnaise mixed with tomato ketchup.”). At its peak, WCK provided 150,000 meals per day, mobilizing an estimated 20,000 volunteers and partnering with local churches, restaurants, the Southern Baptist Convention and, in places, Mercy Corps.

WCK received donations of food products from various companies and organizations both on and off the island. This included staples, produce, and other necessary items. As WCK received press publicity and donations, it scaled up purchases of bulk foods from the United States.

Andres begins the book explaining Puerto Rico’s history as a U.S. colony. He also explains how World Central Kitchen came about its name: “it was founded in the basement of what was then Washington D.C.’s central homes shelter.”  In Puerto Rica, he describes complex interactions with FEMA, President Trump, local authorities and his disappointment with the Red Cross and Salvation Army.

Andres describes the challenges of roads that were destroyed, shortages of water, and poor communications among relief organizations. He organized several kitchens across the island, while hiring local cooks, chefs and drivers among those unable to work their normal jobs. Andres writes repeatedly about circumventing other relief forums or channels because of his impatience with what he calls red tape. Andres’ focus in Puerto Rico and in other WCK programs is to feed people as much as possible in the short-term and leave other aspects of rehabilitation, resettlement and livelihoods to other actors.  Despite the book’s subtitle, the story is not, strictly speaking, about rebuilding or recovery, but about feeding people as a form of relief.  Andres also distinguishes his approach — hot food — from that of other relief models by other organizations which aim to provide the basics for people to feed themselves.

Andres credits his success, and that of his colleagues, to the complexities of running restaurants.  Running restaurants, he argues, requires the same skills as managing disaster relief.

Note:  In 2019 World Hunger Education Service (the NGO publishing this article in Hunger Notes) donated to WCK for its work.

Note:  Though WHES has written repeatedly to WCK for an interview, both to staff and to Chef Andres, no reply has been received.